Three up-and-coming U.P. breweries keep craft beer scene moving forward

The craft beer movement hasn't passed the Upper Peninsula by. From Soo Brewing in Sault Ste. Marie to Brickside Brewing at the very tip of the Keweenaw, our beautiful corner of the world has more than its fair share of breweries. In Marquette alone, there are three successful craft outlets. That's roughly one for every 7,000 residents. Cans from Blackrocks Brewery and Keweenaw Brewing Company feature prominently on the shelves of local package and grocery stores.

But according to those in the know, the Upper Peninsula is nowhere near the point of saturation. Larry Bell, founder of Bell's Brewery and the owner of Escanaba's soon-to-be-opened Upper Hand Brewery, figures there's room for at least six more breweries in the region. Yoopers just can't get enough of the versatile beverage, it seems-- especially when it's made in their own backyard.

Let's take a look at three recently or nearly opened U.P. breweries and check in on some local favorites with ambitious expansion plans.

Cognition Brewing

Despite a few frustrating setbacks, owner Jay Clancey and brewmaster Brian Richards can see the light at the end of the tunnel for Cognition Brewing Company. They're busily converting the old boiler room and adjacent storage areas of downtown Ishpeming's historic Mather Inn into a brewing and fermenting space for the brand-new company. The catch: There aren't any windows in those rooms, which were constructed in the 1930s, "so its pretty dark in there when the lights go out," says Clancey.

Upstairs, the now-disused taproom will need just a bit of polishing and cleaning before it can serve the four to six beers Clancey hopes to have on tap in time for Cognition's November opening. As Richards gets more familiar with the Wisconsin-sourced brewing system and the fermenting tanks from Lake Orion, Michigan-based Craftwerk, the pair should be able to keep most or all of the 12 tap lines and seven serving tanks filled for thirsty customers. And though there's no working kitchen in the space, Clancey does hope to bring in sandwiches and other prepared foods from local restaurants.

Though Clancey has never owned a brewery, he's committed to doing it right. "We'll be stressing cleanliness throughout the whole operation," he says, noting all lines and serving equipment will be cleaned professionally every two weeks. "Once you introduce harmful microorganisms in there," he adds, "it can be hard to make it right."

Over the longer term--because certain beers tend to get better with age--Clancey and Richards hope to have at least one cask offering on tap at any given time. Cognition's distribution plans are less clear, at least for the time being.

"We're concentrating on direct sales [to individuals] of 5 and 16 gallon kegs," says Clancey, "and we're finalizing the logo for our growlers," which should be available in time for the brewery's opening. He doesn't rule out the possibility of bottling, canning, or selling kegs to restaurants in the distant future. But for now, the place to find Cognition beers will be at the source in the historic Mather Inn taproom.

Upper Hand Brewery

Down in Escanaba, a man who's done more for Michigan's craft beer scene than most is finally realizing his lifelong dream of opening a brewery in the U.P.

"Locating a brewery here has always been my little fantasy," says Larry Bell, whose family has owned property in the region for more than a century. His Upper Hand Brewery, located near the Delta County Airport, should have beer in its tanks by the beginning of October. Bottling will follow later in the fall or early winter.

Though Bell will own the place, its connection to the Bell's facility in Kalamazoo will be tenuous at best. It won't make any beers for the Bell's brand or use any Bell's branding. Instead, Upper Hand plans to focus on "U.P.-centric beers"--U.P.A. (Upper Peninsula Ale), Escanaba Black Ale, and others--with moderate alcohol content and broad appeal. "We're focusing on good quality session beers" in popular styles, says Bell. "It's a walk before you can run thing."

But given the formidable resume of its owner, Upper Hand may "run" before long. Once the kinks are ironed out of the 20-barrel brewing system, the six-employee brewery may experiment with specialty and seasonal brews. Bell aims to produce 5,000 barrels in Upper Hand's first full year of production, but as he owns the unimproved land around the brewery, it wouldn't be hard to expand fairly quickly. Regardless of how far and fast Upper Hand expands, though, it won't be hosting a taproom anytime soon: Despite its location on the outskirts of Escanaba--"the logistics hub of the U.P.," says Bell--it's not particularly accessible by vehicle.

But Upper Hand isn't all business. Bell has studied the U.P. beer market extensively and is pleased by the "positive consumption trends" he sees, both among locals and tourists. Upper Hand will definitely market to seasonal visitors, from those passing through the U.P. on a north country road trip to lifelong camp owners like Bell himself.

Once the brewery establishes a foothold here, and assuming demand remains strong, an expansion south to Green Bay and west to the Duluth-Superior area may be in the cards. Over the long term, Upper Hand could distribute as far west as the Dakotas and as far east as the Soo, without ever straying south to the Midwest's major population centers. "We're making beer for wherever people talk funny," jokes Bell.  

Chocolay River Brewery

If you live in the Marquette area, you've probably seen the Bayou Restaurant's catchy TV commercials. The popular restaurant, tucked into a neighborhood just off M-28/US-41 in Harvey, has developed a devoted following in Marquette County. But "a wonderful new addition to the menu," says manager Kris Laforge--beer made in its on-site brewing facility--could draw the attention of nearby craft brew fans used to trekking into Marquette for a pint.

According to Laforge, the Bayou Restaurant and Chocolay River Brewery--as it's properly known--started serving on August 8. There's no separate taproom, but everything brewer Grant Lyke makes is served on-site to restaurant and bar patrons. (Michigan's alcohol laws make it difficult for brewpubs to can or otherwise distribute their beers, though Laforge and company are working on getting an off-site catering license in time for her son's wedding next summer.) For now, the menu focuses on approachable, "sessionable" pale ales and blondes, with a more ambitious black ale or blueberry wheat thrown in here and there.

Thus far, the reception has been loud and positive. Laforge, a self-described Miller Lite drinker, was skeptical at first: "I knew that craft beer was an up and coming thing," she says, "but I was hesitant to try some of the styles." She's sampled most of Lyke's creations, though, and enjoyed them all. "I could easily convert to this stuff," she laughs.

Chocolay River Brewery currently has five beers on tap. As demand increases and Lyke gets more comfortable brewing in volume, that number--and the volume of each batch--could grow significantly. Specialty brews may also be in the cards for the future.

Expansion Plans

While the owners of these three establishments have been hard at work, the folks behind more established U.P. breweries have been pushing the bounds of their craft, pumping up their brewing volume and letting the world know the Upper Peninsula is serious about its beer.

Take Blackrocks Brewery, for instance. It's been about a year since the Marquette stalwart finished work on its Washington Street production and canning facility, and almost that long since the completion of a taproom expansion that more than doubled its indoor seating capacity. U.P. residents have been able to find 51K IPA, Coconut Brown Ale and Grand Rabbits Cream Ale on local store shelves for a while now. And a slow but steady downstate expansion has reached the Grand Rapids area. As the brewery's distribution footprint expands, it'll need to navigate the transition from local favorite to Michigan craft beer powerhouse without sacrificing the quality and creativity that set it apart from other U.P. names.

Just down the hill in downtown Marquette, Ore Dock Brewing Company's new bottling line began churning out Reclamation IPA and Bum's Beach Wheat earlier this summer. A saison--the brewery's signature style--should be hitting stores in Marquette County any day now. Ore Dock beer has been on tap at area bars and restaurants since 2013, but plans for further expansion are less clear.

Still, these ambitious breweries are intent on proving that quality U.P. beer can compete with the best downstate and national brews. It'll be a great day when folks in Wisconsin, Illinois and beyond can enjoy a Blackrocks or Ore Dock beer in the comfort of their own homes (or neighborhood pubs). That is, as long as our local brewers save the best stuff for us.

Brian Martucci writes about business, finance, food, drink and anything else that catches his fancy. You can find him on Twitter @Brian_Martucci