Breathing new life into an old bar at the Wicked Sister

Sometimes it's hard to tell what makes one business successful over one just down the street that's closing its doors. A Sault Ste. Marie family is finding success with a bar and restaurant that has an edgy name, but more importantly good food, drinks and atmosphere.
You might feel a bit apprehensive walking into the Wicked Sister, a new bar and restaurant located in downtown Sault Ste. Marie until you realize the wicked sister is the one who isn't on duty that night. Actually, the sisters aren't wicked at all. They're part of a close-knit family working to fulfill their father's legacy of owning a bar.
 
"My mom and dad always wanted to own a bar," says daughter Laurie Jarvie, a second- grade teacher who moonlights at the new tavern.
 
Their father, John Graham, retired from Edison Soo Electric in 1991 as a divisions manager. He bought the infamous Gin Mill at auction, a bar that was better known for bar fights than a good burger. The elder Graham, who at 82 spends most of his day farming with his grandson, thought all it would need was a good cleaning up and it would be ready to go.
 
However, the family had other plans, particularly Cathy Howell, Graham's granddaughter, who has over 20 years of experience managing bars and restaurants. After three months of a collective effort between daughters, sons-in-law and grandchildren, which involved a complete renovation of the building, the bar/restaurant opened with the look and feel of something you might find in a bigger city.
 
"People are always saying this bar reminds them of a place in Traverse City or Chicago," says Nancy Rose, who with Jarvie and Jeanne McCulligh make up the not-so-wicked sisters.
 
On a Thursday, the place was certainly filling up just like a bar in the big city. According to Rose, it's pretty much been that way since they opened the first week of January.
 
"It's above and beyond what any of us ever expected," says Rose. "We've got a lot of repeat customers," she says, indicating business has been good even after the novelty of a new establishment in town wore off.
 
The sisters take turns playing host to the patrons, clearing tables and holding conversations with the varied crowd that comes in. It sounds like a crowd reminiscent of the famed sitcom Cheers, maybe minus Cliff Clavin, the mailman.
 
"I've met people I would have never known otherwise," says Rose, who had worked at Walmart for 23 years before signing on to this new venture. "It's been really interesting, you learn a lot about people." The challenge, says Rose, is to balance socializing with working the bar.
 
The patrons include the young and old, unlike some bars that seem to attract one or the other. Rose says part of the draw is from the intrigue of the bar's name, which they purposely chose because it is a little edgy. The main attraction, however, appears to be the atmosphere they've created, which is much different than the old Gin Mill, where you might find patrons taking a little nap at the bar or arguing over who has to pay for the next drink.
 
"It's a homey atmosphere, you can come here and talk to each other and not have to scream above the music," says Jarvie.
 
The menu and drink offerings lend themselves well to the character of the place. It's the kind of food you enjoy with friends and co-workers after a day of work or while watching a ball game. For instance, for a burger you can try the Drunken Cow or Wicked Poutine. Custom drinks include Trailer Park Punch and Bad Apple. Howell says they offer over 40 beers as well, the majority of which are from Michigan-owned companies. She says they have to keep abreast of what customers like, which can vary from season to season.
 
Howell, Rose's daughter, is the daily manager of the Wicked Sister. Besides her extensive experience in all aspects of bar and restaurant management, she also brings along her husband Brian's experience; he was an executive chef in Baltimore. Howell does all the hiring and scheduling and covers for anyone who calls in sick. She has a keen eye on the business aspect of running a venture like this and is grateful to be able to pursue her dream of running a restaurant in her hometown.
 
"I have wanted to run my own restaurant since I was 16 years old," says Howell. "To realize a dream and offer something new to the community is really a once in a lifetime opportunity."

Neil Moran is a freelance writer in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan and owner of Haylake Business Communications. You can find him on Twitter at @moranwrite.
Enjoy this story? Sign up for free solutions-based reporting in your inbox each week.