In Michigan's growing wine and beer industry, two men have taken their passion for woodworking and a love of a good brew to bring back an occupation the region hasn't seen in more than 50 years.
Rob Roach and Mark Knisley started
Lake Effect Cooperage in Traverse City a year ago while brewing up batches of IPA -- India Pale Ale -- in their workshop.
"It's a lot of work, but it's satisfying to see a finished barrel," Roach says. "It's pretty cool. Plus, you get to drink beer. We're pretty lucky."
The men -- carpenters by trade -- decided to make barrels for their own brew in their shop. Knisley, who creates craftsman and mission-style furniture, had worked with a cooper years ago, and drew up some plans.
"Well, it was certainly a challenge," Knisley says. "But it's turned into something quite gratifying, to take a bunch of pieces of oak and have a war with them to get it round."
After the first barrel was made, they let their beer age for two weeks. After tapping it, they were so impressed with the taste, they called friend Samuel Adam Sherwood, head brewer at
Walldorff Brew Pub & Bistro in Hastings, Mich. Sherwood then purchased a few barrels. The Walldorff only uses barrels for special occasions and beer festivals, but Sherwood says the wood gives the brew a more authentic taste and is visually appealing.
"It imparts a nice earthy, oaky flavor," he says. He thinks there's a large market to be tapped in the heart of Michigan's wine country. Most of the business for Lake Effect Cooperage is from word of mouth.
"We're starting off slow, testing the waters and checking on the response," Roach says.
Knisley says there hasn't been a cooperage in the area for about 60 years. When they told people they were coopers, they were asked if they made shoes, he laughs.
"People don't understand all that goes into making barrels," he says, adding mechanized systems can crank out hundreds of barrels per day. "It's always nice finding something that is lost and putting it back together. It's reverse engineering."
Both men tout the merits of supporting Michigan-made products, which is why they use Michigan oak.
The process of creating the barrel by hand may be considered a lost art. It is a time-consuming process, and, for now, the pair makes barrels on demand, but Knisley feels confident they could produce 50 barrels in a month if an order was requested.
The men use Michigan products, including the wood, some of which is reclaimed. Starting with oak planks, the wood is individually cut to make the staves. Each stave may require between six and seven cuts. Barrels need 18 to 32 staves depending on the size.
The staves are then attached to the metal hoops, which are also hammered by hand. The bottom head is then attached to the staves. The wood is heated and then tightened by a tourniquet clamp and rope. This is also how the barrel gets its rounded shape.
After that, the barrel is toasted. There are light, medium and dark toasts. A light or medium toast will bring out a vanilla or sometimes cinnamon flavor, Roach says. When toasted for longer, the barrels will create a heavy char or whiskey flavor.
"There are sugars in the wood," he says. "When caramelized, it brings out (varying) notes." "Wineries want lighter toasts whereas breweries tend to want medium to darker toasts."
The barrels are then finished with the company's logo and year it was created. Barrels can cost about $350 to $450, more for French oak, at about $800 to $1,000. For about $150, the men will also refurbish barrels by completely taking them apart and removing about one-eighth inch off the staves by running them through a planer. Then, the barrels are re-toasted.
When a barrel is new, it only takes beer about two weeks to become full-flavored. The more uses the barrel has, the longer it takes for the beer to finish, which is why refurbishing barrels can be economical.
Mark Carlson, of
Silver Leaf Vineyard in Suttons Bay, recently had a French oak barrel refurbished. When new, it cost $1,200 and lasted five years. The refurbishment for $150 will get him another five years.
"I was very happy," Carlson says. "It's a good money-saving move." As a board member for the
Leelanau Peninsula Vintner's Association, he says he plans on sharing his success at the next meeting.
Carlson makes wines traditionally, and enjoys the oaky flavor the barrels impart. Many California vineyards now use wood chips instead of barrels to reduce costs, he says, but plans to continue to use the barrels.
"I think the wine industry in Michigan is doing really well," he says. "Companies like (Lake Effect Cooperage) really helped me out."
Knisley says he and Roach are attempting to branch out to vineyards. Many tend to want French oak, because it is said to be more subtle, whereas Michigan oak can be more stringent and coarse. While the company has focused on Michigan oak, if customers request French, they can do that too.
"It's a small market, but that market uses a lot of barrels from (outside of Michigan)," he says.
The men are also moving shop, near Bellaire. It should be finished in April, and they welcome visitors as long as they call ahead. The company can also personally serve businesses if needed, rather than just over the phone. The pair's ultimate goal is to start their own brewery. They already grow their own hops.
"We just need to build glass and make our own bottles," Roach says, laughing. "It's a good time. I love beer and I like supporting Michigan products."
Valerie West is a community editor at The Oakland Press located in Pontiac, Mich. She is the creator of The VALunteer Project, a weekly blog that focuses on volunteering. She obtained her bachelor's degree in English from Northern Michigan University.