Around The World In 80 Miles

Metro Detroit is often accused of lacking good ethnic restaurants. Having spent years sampling many of them I can report from the frontlines that it simply ain't so. True, Detroit is not New York, but then again, New York isn't Paris (and so on). The fact is southeast Michigan is fat with global cuisine, offering a world of gustatory adventures in 80 miles.

More local than local

For a lesson in the obvious, one has only to consider our large Arabic population to recognize that Metro Detroit is more than a vast landscape of diners and chophouses. I'd be shocked if we didn't have more Middle Eastern restaurants, kabob houses and falafel joints than any other city in American. And one of my favorites is Pars, which can best be described as a variation on a theme.

This Farmington Hills eatery, while serving the better-known dishes of Lebanon and Syria and Iraq, offers several Persian selections that even the most dedicated Foodie might find unique. Alongside the chicken kebabs --always perfectly cooked, slightly charred and moist-- are seasoned a bit differently, turning away from the lemon and garlic standard to a delectable house marinade. This same chicken accompanies most of the restaurant's "Specialty Rices," all a far cry from the usual pilaf, featuring surprise nuances like citrus peel, currants, and black cherries. Pars' attention to meats continues with its tender lamb chops, grilled without char; the shanks perfectly braised and falling off the bone. Their grilled shrimp and whitefish are equally excellent.

The house salad dressing, neglected by most places, is unusual and refreshing, offering an avocado base with lemon, garlic, mint and basil. If you have a more adventuresome palate, try anything that sounds unfamiliar such as the Sabzi and Panir appetizer, a plate of fresh herbs and raw vegetables – mint, basil, green onions and radishes served with Feta cheese. Anything with eggplant is similarly worthy of experimentation. For dessert, do not miss the Persian ice cream, a rich concoction with saffron, rosewater and pistachios.

Near east = Far East

Surely a restaurant filled with customers that resemble the ethnicity of the food served is some validation of its authenticity. Ajiashin, located in a strip mall in Novi, is a comforting mix of East meets West.

Even with time for a leisurely lunch you might want to try to arrive at 11:30 when the crowd - mostly Asian – fills its 60 or so seats. If you must wait, try to edge over to the sushi bar area where you can watch the craftsmen assemble the delectable seafood and rice morsels with impossible agility.

While I don't consider myself a true aficionado of sushi, the consuming crowds regularly attest to both its quality and freshness. The noodles are what draw me to this unlikely 'burb time again. Top of the list is Tetsugaku, a large bowl of udon noodles in a hot curry broth with bits of tofu and seafood, perfect for a blustery winter day. A similarly delectable sauce adorns the Curry Rice. Ajiashin's portions are generous and they feature both daily specials and tantalizing combination plates.

Comfort food

Sure, French kids have their baguettes and brie, but after a morning of sledding and snowball fights what American kid wouldn't salivate at the thought of toasty brown grilled cheese sandwiches and a bowl of piping hot tomato soup? If you're thinking Campbell's soup cans and melted American cheese oozing between crispy slices of buttered Wonderbread, think again. Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup is for adults who seek a sophisticated twist on Americana cuisine.

Tucked away in a strip mall on Northwestern Highway this chaotic lunchtime joint is all about the food. Daily changing choices include ten different soups, one of which is always, of course, the signature Tomato Bisque; a tasty reminiscence of childhood…only better. These folks are serious about their soup. Selections on a recent afternoon included Mushroom Bisque, Clam Chowder, Spanish Rice with Braised Beef, Wisconsin Cheddar and Chicken n' Sausage Gumbo.

Shaved Prime Rib, Roquefort Cheese, Garlic Aioli, Caramelized Onions and Tomato; Spiral Sliced Ham &Gruyere; Add a fried egg for fifty cents; and Three Cheeses, Tomato, Coleslaw, Red Onion & Russian Dressing are among those listed under "Grilled Cheese Sandwiches With…." Priced between seven and eight bucks, it's a fare price for a double-fisted feast. Add a cup of soup for $2.25.* 

For those who want to avoid the calories that grilling adds, there are also baguette sandwiches – how does Marinated Chicken with Fresh Buffalo Mozzarella and Oven Roasted Tomato Provencal sound? – and a dozen salads like Cobb, Maurice and Tuna Nicoise.

But wait, there's more: Mac and Cheese, Pot Roast, Chicken Pot Pie, Meatloaf and Beef Stew. If you can't find comfort here, you must be from another planet.

How do you say "yum," in Spanish?

Taqueria Lupita's doesn't have a website. There's no "Authentic Mexican Food" sign in the window. Lupita's is the real deal. No designer plates or cloth napkins. Just plain Mexican food as it is eaten in Mexico. If your waitress doesn't speak English, point to the meal you want on the menu. If you're studying Spanish in la escuela try to decipher what the people at the next table are saying. If you can translate it, you're probably getting an "A".